Tempting kebabs, aromatic biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and travelers equally swearing by its superb cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Recently, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – placing it on a exclusive group of world cities and sparking hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it enters a international community of more than four hundred cities across over 100 countries committed to promoting "creativity as a driver of development that sustains urban life".
The recognition "stands as proof of its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and dynamic gastronomic culture," as stated by a official from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to earn a spot in this coveted list of 70 global destinations internationally.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The accolade for this time-honored city arrives as hardly a shock to its inhabitants or dedicated food lovers. Many agree with the sentiment that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO recognition, this adored, bustling, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is now in the limelight for what has perennially characterized its soul: an unparalleled love for food.
"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a continued conversation from morning until going to bed in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are actually evaluated by the excellence of food that comes out of your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its succulent kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were invented, evolved, and raised to exquisite levels in their imperial kitchens.
These royal kitchens were centers of culinary innovations, fusing Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were fashioned. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was created to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs processed the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely closed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Besides the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only celebrates seasonal produce but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Virtually on countless corners, there are little shops and kiosks – hidden gems that are extremely favored by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, huge crowds start gathering from the crack of dawn at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in earthenware cups, along with fluffy buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can visit a unpretentious joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also presents unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert savored in the winter. The method of making it is scientific and demanding. The cook beats the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible light consistency.
On chilly mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however say that their children do not want to master the skill.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy puts it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is hoped, will inspire more people globally to discover these tales and experience the city to savour the culinary delights of Lucknow.